‘My hands are my tools; they translate what inspires me from within.’

Interview with Gaetan Fiard, chef at Grand Hotel Intercontinental, France

Gaëtan Fiard worked as a pastry chef at renowned hotels on the Côte d’Azur and in Paris before joining the five-star Grand Hôtel InterContinental in Bordeaux as a pastry chef in 2023. Here he manages a team of 12 employees. ‘Together we make products for four different sales outlets and a two-star restaurant belonging to Gordon Ramsay. In addition, we also prepare products for a brasserie, a bar, a rooftop cocktail bar, events at the hotel and room service.’

‘Taste in the service of art.’

If pastry chef Gaëtan Fiard had to describe himself in one word, it would be ‘gastronomy’. ‘I strive for good products that taste delicious. Products that are made from local ingredients and contain as little added sugar as possible.’

Balance

Gaëtan was named Arts Sucrés World Champion in 2014. He was on his way to becoming part of the Meilleur Ouvrier de France, but withdrew due to lack of time. ‘If I do it, it will be as a one-off thing and I want to be totally prepared. At present, with young children, I don’t have the time for it. It’s hard enough balancing work and personal life.’ In addition to his work at the hotel, Gaëtan freelances as a trainer and business consultant for about 10 days a year. ‘It’s a way to help other professionals find solutions to their problems. I mostly help pastry chefs in rural areas, away from the big cities. It’s difficult for them to leave their shop for one or two days to attend training sessions. I go prepared to show one or two techniques, but I mostly try to work with what is available onsite. I want to offer them solutions based on existing materials, and I definitely don’t want them to think they need to invest tens of thousands of euros first before they can work with new products or techniques. It’s rewarding work. I love getting pictures afterwards and hearing that it worked out and it was all less complicated than they thought. That is how you help people to succeed.’

Terroir

Gaëtan did not grow up in the Bordeaux region, but he believes it is important to use products from this region in his current workplace. ‘I like to work with seasonal ingredients and a short supply chain. Guests coming for gourmet dining are looking for a unique experience. By using local ingredients, we respect them and the region we work in.’ When he arrived in Bordeaux, Gaëtan took a long look at what the region had to offer and contacted several regional suppliers. ‘Within a hundred-kilometre radius, I can find dried fruits, hazelnuts, almonds, pistachios, pecans and peanuts. Even today, I keep discovering new products and new suppliers. This is why it’s actually fun to work in a region you don’t know yet.’

‘I like to work with seasonal ingredients and a short supply chain.’

GAËTAN FIARD

GRAND HÔTEL INTERCONTINENTAL, BORDEAUX, FRANCE

Costs

Sales prices for pastries are higher in a hotel than in a regular shop. But Gaëtan is also faced with rising prices for ingredients, hefty energy bills and high personnel costs. ‘At the end of the year, we too are not allowed to exceed a certain budget. Therefore, we have to pay great attention to our costs. We take care not to overstock: freshly delivered is better anyway. I often try to negotiate prices with suppliers. But the quality of the purchased products takes priority. Cream, for example, must be of good quality and that cannot be bought cheaply. Cream is the basis of our desserts and treats. That’s why I prefer Debic’s products. I need to be able to rely on excellent and consistent quality for my creations.’

Skills

He describes his desserts - made with regional ingredients - as simple but effective. ‘I’m very technically inclined when it comes to presentation. But of course, the taste always comes first.’ One of his favourites is a dessert with peanuts, chocolate and Espelette pepper. ‘Personally, I’m not fond of spicy dishes. But when it’s combined with chocolate, peanuts and cacao nibs, this pepper truly comes into its own. It gives a fresh, tangy twist to this dessert. Of course, I use cream from Debic in the chocolate mousse. This cream ensures that the mousse holds up perfectly.’ Gaëtan needs ingredients he can rely on. ‘The emulsion used in this dessert is delicate. If you don’t shake the siphon long enough, it will remain too liquid. But if you shake it too long, the emulsion becomes grainy. To get it just perfect, you need skilled hands as well as the basic products from Debic.’ Gaëtan often uses his skilled hands to put his ideas down on paper first. ‘My hands create what I conceive. They are like my tools, translators of what inspires me from within. First, they write down all the things I’ve thought of, for example for a specific season or a local product. Then they get to work turning my ideas into a finished product.’ And the execution has to be perfect, from start to finish. ‘At this level, we have to produce the exact same thing every day. For this, we need the same preparations and the same textures. It’s complicated because you’re often dealing with seasonal produce. If a pear is not cooked through because it wasn’t ripe, you need to cook it for longer. Every day we make adjustments. In such situations, it’s wonderful to be able to rely on your basic ingredients.’