‘It is better to buy a good base product than to make a mediocre version yourself.’

Pastry chef Gill Walschap’s happy place is next to a warm oven in a kitchen with the aroma of freshly baked biscuits. So perhaps it is no surprise that she opened her own baking studio in Bornem in the autumn of 2021: Zoet by Gill. She makes desserts, snacks to accompany coffee, bread rolls for the hospitality industry, and much more.

‘It is better to buy a good base product than to make a mediocre version yourself.’

Gill Walschap (27) comes from a family of butchers, but she knew from a young age that she wanted to be a pastry chef. She trained in patisserie at Ter Groene Poorte in Bruges and then worked as a pastry chef in several Michelin-starred restaurants, including 't Zilte***, Het Gebaar*, and Nuance**. ‘In the beginning, I was very interested in the science behind nutrition,’ she begins, speaking from her studio in Bornem. ‘However, studying Food Science was too scientific for me. I missed doing my own baking, so I started working in quality restaurants. That was tough at times, but I also learned a lot.’

Added value

Now Gill prepares pastries, desserts, and snacks to accompany coffee for the restaurant and hospitality sectors in her own company, Zoet by Gill. ‘Some of my customers prefer a dessert that you can simply put on a plate. Others like to add their own personal touch in the form of a garnish or decoration. Everything is possible! I often help entrepreneurs think about how they want to present the food I make and to look at what is possible, as the number of employees available on a given evening and the facilities for storing food also play a part.’

The perfect dessert
The perfect dessert

For Gill, the importance of a good dessert is often underestimated in the hospitality industry. ‘In a menu, this is the last course you eat. Even if you have a thirteen-course menu and the last twelve have all been top-notch: if that thirteenth course is not right, you could destroy everything you have built up so carefully throughout the evening. The dessert is the memory your guests will take home with them, so it has to be excellent.’ 

Gill says a perfect dessert includes several components. ‘It ought to have something creamy, something crispy, something airy, and something deliciously smooth. I prefer including ice cream, to create a combination of hot and cold. It’s OK to have contrasting textures and consistencies in a dessert. When it comes to flavour, not everything has to be sweet—I am happy to include something sour or even bitter, as long as it is well balanced in the end.’ Her personal favourite ingredient is caramel, in all its forms. ‘You can make so many different things with caramel, and they are always delicious. I don’t just mean salted caramel: caramelised puff pastry is another example.’

A good basic product
A good basic product

Gill makes all her ingredients herself. Nevertheless, she understands why chefs sometimes opt for convenience – in fact, she thinks this is wise. ‘If you don't have enough time or space to make your own products, buy a good basic product. It is important to learn to outsource things rather than always insisting that you have to do and make everything yourself. In the worst case, you could end up with a whole range of mediocre products. In that situation, buying a good basic product is definitely the best choice.’

Gill sometimes mentions Debic's basic products to her customers. ‘When a customer asks me to supply a classic crème brûlée, I advise them to buy Debic Crème Brûlée Bourbon. It’s a stable, high-quality product, which you can prepare to a high standard yourself with little knowledge and in a short time. It also has a much longer shelf life than a dessert you would buy from me, and that will be good for your margins too. Choose something from my range that helps you to get noticed, and use Debic's functional basic products for the classics. I think it’s a very good approach for chefs who are short of time or have limited staffing.’

Do it again with greater care
Do it again with greater care

Gill herself has been using Debic's cream and butter for many years. ‘I use Debic Cream 35%: it provides a very consistent base for my mousses and creams. To be able to use stable basic products like that in my cooking is an ideal situation. It allows me to experiment and be creative because I know exactly how to handle the product, for example, in terms of temperature or stand. If something does go wrong, I can be virtually certain it wasn’t because of the cream or butter.’

Sometimes a mousse doesn't seem to have the quality Gill is looking for. ‘Sometimes I produce as many as ten different mousses in one day and the next day again. If one of these doesn’t seem quite right, that tells me I need to take a bit more care. Perhaps I have been too focused on production and need to give some more attention to development. Quite often, I will take a step back and make the recipe again with greater care, coming back to the parameters that matter most. How long am I beating it for, how warm or cold is it? I think you should always keep a critical eye, not only on your products but on your preparation methods too.’

Out for a run

Gill is clearly very determined. She started her business between two lockdowns and, in just a few years, has expanded it into a successful venture with a valuable customer base. ‘It's great to see what I can do with my hands. I addressed challenges, dealt with them, and kept going, adding a touch of refinement where necessary and delivering precision work. If something goes wrong, I try again. I also keep a close eye on my cost calculations. This is not my favorite job, but it is an important one.’ Gill regularly goes out for a run to take a break from the business. ‘For the first half hour, all sorts of things keep popping up in my head. However, as I keep running, there seems to be a sense of space. This is what I need to stay creative. When things get busy, going out for a run is sometimes the first thing you leave out. Now I am trying to make sure that my run is the last thing to go. I would rather have an hour less for sleep or miss a break rather than losing that sense of perspective. Sometimes you have to make a choice: does it really have to be done now or can it wait until later? You need the courage to move your priorities around. As an entrepreneur, you also have to accept that you don't know everything. That also creates a sense of calm.’

 

Find out how Gill uses Debic products in her creations.

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Check our article about Arjan Arkesteyn succeeding his father in running the family bakery.

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