‘My kitchen has to run like a Swiss watch.’ Inside the Kitchen of Chef Petr Kunc

By his own admission, Petr Kunc does not really have a signature dish. Nonetheless, he feels that his dishes are very recognisable. ‘I cook modern, European cuisine and love French and Italian influences. I prefer to buy ingredients that are as local and seasonal as possible. Even months before introducing a new menu, I talk to farmers and suppliers in the area to find out what we can source from them in the next season. I want to make sure it will be available throughout the season, but I rarely, if ever, put the same thing on the menu. And even if we do that, I try to improve the dish and serve it in a completely different way.’ For this Czech chef, taste comes first, closely followed by the visual aspect of a dish. ‘I’ve done internships with famous chefs such as Gordon Ramsay, Sergio Herman, Nuno Mendez and Pierre Gagnaire, and worked for years with celebrity chefs in England. I’ve worked as a private chef for London’s VIP catering company Rhubarb, preparing dinners for Buckingham Palace, Kensington Palace, Windsor Castle, the Borussia Dortmund football team and personalities such as Elton John, Louis Vuitton, Donna Karan and Valentino. I also took care of the catering at events such as Wimbledon, Royal Ascot and the 2012 Olympics. In England, I learned that your dishes should not only taste sublime, but also look fantastic. After all, you also eat with your eyes.’

Chef Petr Kunc, executive chef of the restaurant Salabka in Prague, calls himself a –perfectionist. ‘My kitchen has to run like a Swiss watch. Everything has to be one hundred percent in order.’ He draws inspiration from his travels and the changing seasons. ‘In the Czech Republic, we have four seasons. So our menu changes four times a year.’

In 2016, Petr launched Salabka: a gourmet restaurant in Prague’s largest and oldest winery that can seat up to 40 guests at a time. ‘Here we offer our diners value for money and serve them the best products you can find in the Czech Republic. There’s always something that adds extra value, for example, caviar or edible gold.’ His wife Gabriela works alongside him as restaurant manager, and together they have built up a solid team. ‘I want to work with talented and ambitious people so that together we can take our dishes and service to the next level. I want them to be enthusiastic, share my vision and be really committed to preparing a fantastic and delicious menu. Everything here has to be top quality.’

Ever since Salabka opened, Petr has been chasing a Michelin star. ‘I was once a great sportsman and you never lose that competitive spirit. I want to win and be the best. When Michelin makes the path towards a star more challenging, it makes us even hungrier. But I try not to focus only on the end result these days. I also want to fully enjoy the journey.’ Petr thinks a Michelin star could help to create more enthusiasm for the lunch service at his restaurant. ‘In the Czech Republic, people are not really used to going to a gourmet restaurant for lunch. So this is our weak spot: it is a challenge to get the restaurant filled around noon. If we can get that star, Salabka will become internationally renowned and appeal to a larger, foreign customer base. When I travel, I really like to eat at a restaurant recommended in the Michelin Guide. It is a hallmark of quality.’

Preparation

Petr uses his hands to give his dishes an innovative twist. ‘At Salabka, we try out all kinds of things. We communicate a lot, we constantly talk about food, and then we go and make something. Sometimes it doesn’t amount to much. Sometimes it turns out really well. If it’s really delicious, looks great and can be prepared from the best ingredients, we put it on the menu. Serving food is actually not such a big deal. The most important thing is the preparation.’